Braiding Your Natural Hair
Part and section your hair for braiding. Use a comb with a rattail end for parting and sectioning—this will help you make super clear, precise parts for clean and distinct braids. Start by making a middle part starting at your forehead and going all the way down the back of your head. Then, create additional sections on each half of your head parallel to your middle part (one section makes one braid). Make your sections about 1 inch (2.5 cm) or so wide for thinner, clean braids (if your hair is longer than 2 inches (5.1 cm), you can try larger sections for larger braids). Leave enough hair in each section for you to comfortably grip and braid. Make sure the parted section of hair is the same thickness throughout to keep the braid even. It’s tempting to make big sections (after all, that means less braiding and less time!). However, wide sections make for thicker braids that are more likely to come loose and need to be redone. Use butterfly or duckbill clips to hold back the sections of hair you aren’t actively braiding.
Create strands for braiding within a section of hair. Start with a section on the side of your head closest to your ear. For a traditional braid or cornrow, separate your hair in this section into 3 braiding strands, starting at the edge of your hairline. Braids and twists that hug your scalp will get thicker as you braid since you have to continually add more hair, so make slightly thinner strands than you think you need. If your hair is thin, you don’t have to braid your edges. Begin the braid about 0.5 inches (1.3 cm) away from your hairline. Use an edge styling brush to clean up your edges if needed.
Grip your braiding strands and begin braiding. Use the same braiding pattern you’d use for long hair—the only difference is that your strands will be very short and you’ll gather more hair for each repetition, similar to a French braid: Grab the outer right strand of hair in your right hand and the other 2 strands in your left hand. Begin braiding your hair by grabbing the outer left strand with your right index finger and thumb and pulling it under the middle strand (the middle strand can rest on top of your index finger while you do this). What used to be the middle strand should now be on the outer left, and the original outer left should now be in the middle.
Complete your first braiding repetition. Grab the outer right strand with your left index finger and thumb. Pull it under the new middle section to complete your first braid repetition. Grab additional hair every time you grab an outer strand to bring into the middle (just enough to keep your braiding strands the same thickness—about ⅓ of the section’s worth). Try to grab the same amount of hair each time you move an outer strand to the middle for a uniform braid thickness. Let the middle strand of hair rest on top of your index fingers during each repetition so you can keep a firm grip on the 2 strands underneath. This helps keep the braid tight and clean and prevents loose hairs from sticking out.
Keep repeating this process until you run out of hair. Depending on the length of your natural hair, this could be near the nape of your neck or slightly above. If you notice your strands are getting uneven near the end, gradually add hair from a longer strand into a shorter one as you wrap up. If needed, tie the ends of each braid with a hair elastic, like a hair tie or tiny rubber band, to prevent them from unraveling.
Adding Braided Extensions
Buy packs of synthetic hair for braiding. The number of packs you buy depends on how long and thick you want your braids to be (bigger braids mean more hair). Usually, 6 to 8 packs is enough. If you’re not sure how much you need, buy extra packs (you can always save leftover hair for future braids or other styles). Buy pre-stretched hair to save yourself some prep time. Buy synthetic hair for braiding online or at most beauty stores.
Part and section your natural hair into 4 equal quadrants. Using a rattail comb, start with a middle part from your forehead to the nape of your neck. Then do another part going across the top of your head from ear to ear. Once you have these, section off your hair within each quadrant into equal size sections. Make square-shaped sections about 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) wide for medium-size braids. Smaller sections result in many thin braids that are close together. Bigger sections will end up as thicker braids that are more spaced out. The size and number of the smaller sections is up to you—make them as big or small as you like! Use butterfly or duckbill clips to keep your hair sections secure while you braid.
Split your synthetic hair into equal-size braiding strands. Grab a strand of synthetic hair and pull out about ⅓ of it to make a separate strand—this leaves you with a thin strand (the hair you just removed) and a thick strand that is twice as thick as the thin strand. Drape the thin strand over the thick strand and bring the ends of the thin strand together so the thin strand is looped over the thick strand. The end result is 3 braiding strands of equal thickness. The longer the synthetic hair, the longer the braid. If you want your braid to be shorter than the synthetic hair, trim the end with scissors before you section off the strands. Thicker braiding strands result in thicker braids.
Integrate your natural hair into the synthetic braiding strands. Choose a section of your natural hair and split it into 2 equal strands of hair. Bring your synthetic braiding hair up to your scalp and add your 2 strands of natural hair to 2 of the 3 strands of synthetic hair. You now have 3 strands of hair to braid—1 that’s fully synthetic, and 2 that have your natural hair incorporated. The 3 strands of braiding hair should be about equal in size. To help grip the synthetic hair, try twisting your natural hair strands into “U” shapes around the synthetic strands. Keep firm tension on the strands while you do the first several braid repetitions to secure the extension. If your hair is thin, you don’t have to braid your edges in the sections near your hairline. Begin the braid about 0.5 inches (1.3 cm) away from your hairline. Use an edge styling brush to clean up your edges if needed.
Begin braiding your synthetic hair firmly and close to the scalp. The shorter your natural hair is, the more tight and precise your first few braid repetitions need to be so that the synthetic hair can latch on. Use a standard, 3-strand braiding pattern. Continue braiding all the way to the end of the synthetic hair: Hold 2 strands of hair in one hand and grab the third with your index finger and thumb in the other. Pull the third strand under the middle strand. What used to be the middle strand should now be on the outside, and the original outer strand should now be in the middle. Then pull the outer strand from the other side underneath the new middle strand. Keep repeating this process until you run out of hair. Be careful not to start your braid too tight. You want it to be firm and secure, but braiding too tightly can cause breakage, pain, or other damage to your natural hair.
Use a hair elastic to secure the end of your braid if needed. If you bought pre-stretched hair and didn’t cut the ends, you probably don’t need elastic—the ends are already feathered, so they should taper away nicely and stay braided. Once the first braid is complete, repeat the entire process for each section of hair until you have a full head of beautiful braids!
Dip your braids in hot water to seal them. Boil some water and pour it into a large bowl. Carefully dip the ends of your braids in the water while it’s still hot to remove frizziness and prevent the ends of the braids from unraveling. If you used hair elastic to keep your braids together, you can remove them after this sealing treatment. Hold the braids in the hot water for about 15 seconds—any longer and you risk melting or damaging the synthetic hair. Use scissors to cut any wispy or frizzy ends off of the extensions. Synthetic braids normally last about 6 to 8 weeks. Even if they still look great after 8 weeks, take them out to let your natural hair rest and heal.
Prepping Your Hair for Healthy Braids
Wash and condition your hair the day before braiding. Once your hair is braided, you won’t be able to clean most of your natural hair for several weeks (or until you de-braid). Make sure your natural hair is clean and nourished before styling to keep it healthy while it’s braided. If you have weak hair or dandruff, treat your hair with protein or dandruff shampoo for about 2 weeks before braiding for maximum health. Use a clarifying shampoo to get rid of any buildup on your hair. Shampoos with sulfates (SLS) might strip too much moisture from your hair, so look for products with natural ingredients like apple cider vinegar instead.
Deep condition your hair to add extra strength and moisture. This is your last chance to give your hair any nutrients it might need to stay strong before you braid. You don’t have to use an overnight conditioner—as long as you let it sit for at least 20 minutes, you’re good to go. If you want to skip this step, try a leave-in conditioning treatment a few hours before you braid. This step adds extra slip to your hair strands, which makes installing synthetic braids easier.
Detangle your hair thoroughly before braiding. Detangled hair is easier to work with during braiding and is easier to detangle while you take your braids out, too. Use a wide-toothed comb while your hair is damp (not too wet or completely dry) to prevent breakage. Comb your hair in separated sections to further prevent breakage. Condition your hair before combing to reduce friction, too. If your hair is long enough to hang, start detangling at the ends and work your way up toward the scalp.
Stretch your hair out to prevent frizz. If your hair has natural curls, straighten them out to make your braids super smooth. After washing, blowdry your hair in sections with a paddle brush to stretch it out. Treat your hair with a heat protector beforehand—look for products with avocado, coconut, grape seed, olive, or sunflower oil. If you don’t want to use heat and your hair is long enough, moisturize your hair after washing and then style it into loose braids or buns and let it air dry.
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