How to Build a Deer Fence

Gathering the Right Materials

Locate vulnerable areas susceptible to deer damage. Deer tend to browse between dusk and dawn so it isn't always possible to see what’s causing damage in the garden. However, deer often leave a few telltale signs behind them, including: Plant damage that has occurred overnight, particularly to shoots, flower buds, and foliage. Tree bark that’s been eaten or damaged by deer rubbing their antlers against it.

Calculate the linear footage by measuring the length of the perimeter. Use a measuring wheel or tape measure to determine this number. Be sure to account for the distance that is covered by obstacles, such as trees, hedges, and buildings. Space the perimeter about 3 to 5 feet (0.91 to 1.52 m) outward from the vulnerable area.

Purchase 1.77-inch x 1.96-inch deer fencing for the best results. Fencing with 1.77 by 1.96 inch (4.5 cm × 5.0 cm) mesh holes will give you the most protection. However, 1.75 by 2 inch (4.4 cm × 5.1 cm) mesh also works. Add 10 percent extra to your final measurement to account for mistakes. To do so, multiply the final number by 1.1. For example, if the total linear footage is 100 feet (30 m), you need enough fencing to cover 110 feet (34 m). Avoid 0.75 by 1 inch (1.9 cm × 2.5 cm) mesh fencing, which is designed for smaller animals.

Buy 6 to 8 foot (1.8 to 2.4 m) tall deer fence posts per 15 feet (4.6 m). White-tailed deer have the ability to jump almost 8 feet (2.4 m) high, so fences need to either be just as tall or angled outward to compensate. If your total linear footage (without the 10 percent extra) is 100 feet (30 m), divide this number by 15 to get the number of posts. In this case, you need 7 (6.66 rounded up). Head to a home hardware store to purchase deer fence posts. Slant your fence outward at a 45-degree angle for fences less than 8 feet (2.4 m) tall.

Purchase 8-gauge monofilament wire and ties to hold your fence taut. Although 12-gauge wiring works, 8-gauge is the most reliable. To determine the amount of monofilament wire you need, multiply your total linear footage by 2. Afterward, purchase 7 to 8 self-locking ties per post. Although monofilament wire is not necessary, it's a nice addition to keep your fence taut and secure.

Buy bottom ground stakes to secure your fence to the ground. Divide the total linear footage by 5 to determine the number of bottom ground stakes you need. For example, a 100 foot (30 m) fence requires 20 bottom ground stakes. Don't use the total linear footage with the 10 percent addition. Don't skip bottom ground stakes—they prevent deer from getting under the fence.

Putting in the Posts

Line your posts around the perimeter 15 feet (4.6 m) apart. Before driving your posts into the ground, place them flat on the ground around the perimeter. Each post should be an equal distance—15 feet (4.6 m)—away from each other. If you're short on posts, divide your total linear footage by 15 again and double-check that you purchased enough.

Insert your posts into the ground using a post hole driver. You can purchase a post hole driver from home hardware stores. Hold each post vertically over the perimeter. Now, place the post hole driver on top of the post and grip it by the handles. Apply as much force as you can downward to drive the post into the ground. About 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 m) of each post should be exposed above the ground. Make sure each post is driven at least 1 foot (0.30 m) into the ground.

Drive the posts into the ground using a hammer or rubber mallet. If you don't have a post hole driver, hold each post vertically over the perimeter with your non-dominant hand. Now, place the side of a hammer or mallet to the top and drive it downward with a hammering motion. Afterward, about 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 m) of the posts should be visible above the ground. Be sure that your posts are at least 1 foot (0.30 m) into the ground.

Attaching the Fencing

Connect the fence from the bottom of the first post to the top. Start by attaching your fence to the top of a post using a zip tie, but don't tie it tightly just yet. Now, do the same for the bottom, but tie it tightly. Be sure to leave about 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) of fencing to account for hills and dips that can decrease when you stretch. If you have any extra fencing, staple it flush to the ground.

Fasten your monofilament wire along the top of the fence. Feed the monofilament wire through the top tip—leaving 1 foot (0.30 m) extra to tie it to the post—and tighten the zip tie. Finally, tie the excess wiring around the post. Skip this step if you didn't purchase monofilament wiring.

Continue connecting fencing to your posts. Move to the right or left down the perimeter and pull the fencing and monofilament wire along with you. Always attach the fencing to the top and bottom of the posts via zip ties, taking care to stretch them out straight so theirs is enough tension that they don't hang loose. Use monofilament wire to keep the top of the fencing straight and secure. If your fencing has "memory" and retains a curved shape, stretch it out 3 to 4 feet (0.91 to 1.22 m) and bend it into the opposite direction that it was rolled in.

Fasten the fence to the ground using bottom ground stakes. Attach the hooked end to the bottom of the fence—over the monofilament wire—and drive the kinked end into the ground with a hammer or rubber mallet. Be sure to attach each bottom ground stake about 5 feet (1.5 m) from each other. Always drive the kinked end of the stake into the ground—this prevents it from coming loose.