Bleaching Your Hair
Decide what color you want to dye your hair. This will determine whether or not you need to bleach it first. If you are going for a darker shade than your own, you do not need to bleach your hair and can go right on to the dyeing portion. If you are going a lighter shade, however, you will need to bleach first. If you have light hair and are dyeing it darker, click here to continue. If your hair is blonde and you are dyeing it a cool color, like purple or blue, it may be a good idea to tone your hair first. Click here to learn more.
Cover your skin, clothing, and counter. Put on an old shirt you won't mind staining, then cover your shoulders with an old towel. Lay down some newspaper across your counter. If you want to, you can pull on a pair of plastic dyeing gloves as well. The bleach will be coming into contact with your scalp anyway, so the gloves are not absolutely necessary.
Mix 1 part bleach with 2 parts 20 volume developer. Get a packet of hair bleach and 20 volume developer. Measure out 1 part bleach and 2 parts 20 volume developer. Mix the two together in a non-metal bowl with a non-metal spoon. Prepare enough bleach to saturate your hair. Some bleach kits come with a little scoop. Use that to measure the bleach and developer.
Apply a thin layer of bleach to your hair, then wait 15 minutes. If you're wearing gloves, you can apply the bleach with your hands. Alternatively, use a tinting brush. Don't worry about being too meticulous here. Simply apply a light, even coat of bleach, then wait 15 minutes. The goal is to cover as much of your hair as quickly as possible. This initial coat of bleach will ensure that your hair lightens evenly. Cover your hair with a plastic shower cap to protect your surroundings. If you have very light hair, you may only need to wait 5 to 10 minutes. Once you notice your hair starting to lighten, you're ready for the second coat of bleach.
Apply more bleach and wait another 30 minutes. Do not rinse the bleach out. Simply take the shower cap off (if you put it on earlier), and apply a thick, generous coat of bleach. Use enough so that you can't see a single strand of hair sticking out of the bleach. Once you have it in, wait up to 30 minutes for the bleach to process. Again, cover your hair with a plastic shower cap while the bleach processes. If you have light-colored hair to begin with, you may not need to wait the full 30 minutes. If you like the level of lightness your hair reaches, you are done!
Wash the bleach out with cool water and shampoo. Rinse the bleach out with cool water first, then use some shampoo. You haven't dyed your hair yet, so you can use any type of shampoo you want. A mild, moisturizing shampoo would be the best, however, because it will make your hair feel nice and soft. It's a good idea to use a purple or blue shampoo after you bleach your hair. This will help tone down any brassy, yellow, or orange tints that remain in your hair.
Toning Your Hair
Determine whether you need to tone your hair. Dye is translucent, so it only adds to whatever color is already there. Take a look at your hair and note the color. Is it silver, yellow, or brassy? Next, take a look at the color you are going to dye it. Will this color mix well with your current hair color? If not, you need to tone! For example: Warm colors, like warm pink and peach already have orange in them, so if your hair came out brassy, you don't need to tone it. Cool colors, such as cool pink, purple, and blue need a silver base. If your hair came out brassy or yellow, you'll have to tone it. Some colors mix well with yellow because they already contain yellow--such as green or orange. In this case, you don't need to tone it.
Protect your skin, clothing, and counter. Toner has a small amount of dye in it, which is what helps cancel out the yellow or orange tones in your hair. As such, it will stain clothing, skin, and hair. Put on an old shirt you don't mind getting dirty, or drape an old towel around your shoulders. Cover your counter with newspaper and pull on a pair of plastic dyeing gloves. There is no need to apply petroleum jelly to the skin around your hairline, ears, and neck.
Mix up your toner with volume 20 developer. Purchase a bottle of toner and some 20 volume developer. Mix the two together following the proportions recommended on the toner. As with bleach and dye, use a non-metal bowl and non-metal spoon. If you can't find a toner, you can use a toning shampoo instead. If you can't find either, add a tiny amount of purple dye to white conditioner instead.
Apply the toner to your hair. You can do this with your gloved hands or with a tinting brush. Be sure to apply the toner liberally to your hair so that it coats every strand. If you don't do this, your hair won't tone evenly, which could result in an inconsistent dye job. Cover your head with a plastic shower cap. This will help keep your surroundings clean during the next step.
Allow the toner to process, then rinse it out. How long you wait depends on the type of toner that you are using and the amount of toning that you require. In most cases, expect to wait around 10 to 15 minutes. Once the time is up, hop into the shower and wash the toner out using cool water. Keep rinsing until the water runs clear. If you need to, use some sulfate-free shampoo meant for color-treated hair.
Touch up any over-toned areas with bleach for 2 to 3 minutes. If you left the toner on for too long, your hair may come out purple. Unless you are dyeing your hair purple, you may want to bleach these purple tints out. Dry your hair completely first, then apply bleach to it. Leave it on for 2 to 3 minutes, then wash it out with shampoo. Prepare your bleach using 1 part bleach and 2 parts 20 volume developer. Apply the bleach with a tinting brush for more precision. You may not have to touch up all of your hair.
Apply a deep-conditioning mask for 30 minutes. While not absolutely necessary, this will help make your hair nice and soft. If you plan on dyeing your hair, then you might want to hold off on the mask for now. If you are leaving it silver or white, however, then take a moment to apply a deep conditioning mask. Make sure that you use a sulfate-free mask. Check the ingredients label to be sure. Cover your head with a plastic shower cap to help make the mask more effective. You can use the same shower cap that you used previously, but make sure it's clean!
Dyeing Your Hair
Protect your skin, clothing, and counter against stains. Put on an old shirt and drape an old towel over your shoulders. Cover your counter with newspaper and pull on a pair of plastic dyeing gloves. There is no need to apply petroleum jelly to your hairline, neck, or ears; it will only make the job messier. It would be best if you wait 1 to 2 days before dyeing your hair to minimize damage. However, because your hair is so short, the damage won't be very noticeable.
Prepare your dye, if needed. There are lots of different dyes available on the market. Most punk dyes come already mixed into developer and are ready to use straight from the jar. Other types of dyes need to be mixed into a 20 volume developer. You can even used a boxed dye kit. If you got a pre-mixed dye and it is too dark, mix a small amount of the dye into white conditioner. Use enough conditioner to saturate your hair. Always prepare the dye in a non-metal bowl. Use a non-metal spoon to stir it.
Apply the dye to your hair with a tinting brush. Start from the top of your head and work your way towards the back. Do your front hairline and the sides next. When you reach your ears, pull them forward so that you can get the hairs behind them. Use the edge of the brush to do your hairline. Don't worry if you get dye on your skin; it will come off. Turn your back to the mirror, and hold a smaller mirror in front of you so that you can check your work in the back of your head.
Cover your hair with a plastic shower cap and allow it to process. How long you let the dye process depends on the type of dye that you are using. Most pre-mixed punk dyes need 45 minutes while boxed kits need only 20 minutes. Check the label or instructions that came with your dye. The plastic shower cap is not absolutely necessary, but it will help keep your surroundings clean. It also traps your body heat, which helps the dye process more effectively.
Rinse the dye out with cool water, then follow up with conditioner. Do not use any shampoo, as this may cause the dye to fade. Simply rinse the dye out with cool to lukewarm water. Once the water runs clear, apply conditioner to your hair. Wait 2 to 3 minutes, then rinse the conditioner out. Use a sulfate-free conditioner made for color-treated hair. If you are using a boxed dye kit, there may already be a packet of conditioner for you to use. Most of the dye on your skin should have come out during your shower. If it didn't, use a cotton ball soaked in an alcohol-based makeup remover to wipe it off. Tracey Cunningham Tracey Cunningham, World-Hair Colorist Vibrant buzzed hair color requires preparation. Thoroughly pre-lighten for a blank canvas. Apply dye fast with a tint brush before it oxidizes. Work in small sections, saturating cuticle without excess pooling. Process fully, rinse thoroughly. With practice, even novices can master temporarily transforming buzzed styles.
Maintaining Your Hair
Trim your buzz cut every 2 weeks. At this length, even the smallest amount of regrowth will be obvious, so you will need to trim your hair more often than you regularly would. Because of how often you have to trim it, it would be a good idea to invest in a trimmer and learning how to buzz your own hair. If your hair grows slowly, then you may be able to go 3-4 weeks between haircuts.
Retouch your color every 2 to 4 weeks. Again, at this length, even the slightest amount of regrowth becomes visible. Unless you don't mind the frosted-tips look, you will need to redo the entire coloring process on your hair. This includes bleaching and toning as well. Bleaching will damage your hair, but at this length, it won't be as noticeable. Plus, you will eventually buzz it off.
Cover your hair when stepping outside. This will not only keep your color from fading, but it will also protect your scalp from getting sunburned. If you don't like to wear hats, try a hood or scarf instead. You can also apply some sunscreen or UV protection spray. A hat, scarf, or hood will help keep the color from fading the best.
Wash your hair with cool water and color-safe products. This is the key to keeping your color bright and vibrant. Wash your hair with the coldest temperature you can withstand, and be sure to use shampoo and conditioner formulated for color-treated hair. Limit yourself to washing your hair only once or twice per week. If you do need to wash your hair between then, stick to plain water. If you can't find products made for color-treated hair, use sulfate-free products instead. Sulfates are harsh cleaning agents that can cause hair dye to fade.
Use a scalp cleansing shampoo when you change your hair color. When you trim your buzz cut, you'll likely end up cutting all of the dyed portions off and starting with virgin hair. This is a perfect opportunity to wash your scalp with a scalp cleansing shampoo, such as an anti-dandruff or scalp balancing shampoo. If possible, use sulfate-free shampoo; sulfates can contribute to dryness. Don't wash your hair with scalp cleansing shampoo while it is still dyed, as the shampoo may remove the color. Consider using a scrub on your hair during this time as well. This will help remove the dead skin cells from our scalp.
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