How to Hide Pipes in the Kitchen

Method One: Painting Pipes

Pick a color scheme. If you want to hide your pipes, the best option is to use a paint color that matches the hue of your kitchen walls or ceiling. In essence, you'll be hiding the pipes in plain sight. Even though the pipes will be out in the open, they will fade into the background and become much less noticeable. Alternatively, you can make your pipes look like part of the décor by painting them in a fresh color that stands out. For instance, you could paint the pipes a bright color that coordinates with the rest of your kitchen décor, turning them into statement pieces instead of eyesores.

Clean the pipe. Use a steel wool brush to scrub away as much dirt, rust, and old paint as possible. Follow up by cleaning away any oil or grime with a wet rag. Use a mild detergent and warm water. After wiping the pipe with a soapy rag, wipe it down again with a second rag soaked in clean water to rinse away any detergent residue. Thoroughly dry the pipe with a dry rag before continuing. Leaving moisture on the pipe could cause it to rust and may prevent the paint from properly adhering to the surface.

Protect the area. Clear the area of furniture. Cover the floor, counter, and all fixed appliances with plastic sheets to protect them from stray paint. Make sure that all removable furniture is as far away as it needs to be to protect it. This may mean moving it to another room while you work on your pipes. It's also a good idea to protect yourself, too. Wear clothes that you do not mind getting paint on. Consider wearing goggles if you have to paint a pipe on the ceiling since dripping paint could theoretically get into your eyes without protection.

Apply metal primer. Select a rust-proof metal primer. Paint a smooth layer of primer over the pipe with a standard paintbrush. Make sure that you select the right primer. Different primers are designed for use with different types of metal, so you'll need to know what your pipes are made from before you can purchase the right primer. Wait for the primer to dry before continuing to the next step. Read the primer label to determine how long you'll need to wait.

Paint a first coat. Using a clean paintbrush, apply an even, smooth layer of your chosen paint over the dry primer. Make sure that the paint is formulated for use with the type of metal you'll be applying it over. It's also a good idea to use paint made by the same manufacturer that produced the primer, since doing so will ensure that the primer and paint will be compatible with one another. Read the paint label to determine how much time needs to pass in between coats.

Apply additional coats as needed. Once the pipe is ready for another coat, paint another smooth coat over the first. Let it dry. Usually, you will only need to apply two coats. If you decide to apply more, make sure that the proper amount of time passes in between each consecutive coat. Once all of the coats are on, you'll need to let the paint dry for a longer period of time before touching the pipe or moving furniture back into the kitchen. In most cases, the paint should dry within 24 hours, but you should check the manufacturer's label for a more exact measurement of time. After the final coat of paint dries, the project is complete.

Method Two: Boxing Pipes

Assess the area. This project works best for pipes lying in or near a corner. It also works well for pipes running along one wall seam. You will need to box in the pipe from two sides, so there needs to be two nearby walls. Even if the pipe does not lie directly in a corner or along a wall seam, it should be relatively close.

Measure the area. Use a combination square to determine the depth, width, and length of the pipe space you'll need to hide. Place the square portion of the measuring tool against one of the walls. Measure out from the wall to the exterior side of the pipe to determine the necessary depth. Repeat this procedure by measuring from exterior of the pipe to the other wall. This should give you the necessary width. Make sure that you are measuring at the widest point of the pipe. Measure the length of the pipe, as well, so you'll know how long your boxing will need to be.

Measure and cut three battens. Cut three battens so that the length of each one matches the length of the pipe from wall to wall (or ceiling to floor). Note that if one or two of the battens will be placed over a wall with skirting on either end, you will need to make these battens a little shorter than the full length one. Measure the wall length again, this time working from skirt to skirt, to find the altered length. These battens will be used to support the box sides. Use plywood roughly 2 inches (5 cm) wide by 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep to create each one.

Secure the first two battens to the wall. Screw the battens to the wall so that they surround either side of the pipe. Measure out from the corner seam of the wall when placing these battens. The placement of one should match your previously measured pipe depth, and the placement of the other should match your previously measured pipe width. Use screws and wall plugs that will work on the type of wall or ceiling you're dealing with. If you're fixing the battens onto masonry, you'll need to use 5.5 to 6 mm drill bits, 2 inch (5 cm) number 8 screws, and red wall plugs set to fit holes and screws of this size. Space the screws apart by approximately 15.7 inches (40 cm). Drill a pilot hole into the wall, hammer in the wall plug, then gently twist the screw into the plug.

Measure and cut the plywood. Measure and cut two plywood boards. These will become the sides of your pipe boxing. The length of each board needs to match the length of the pipe space and the length of the battens. The width of one board must match the distance between the wall and the outside edge of one batten. The width of the other board must match the distance between the other wall and the outside edge of the other batten. Note that these distances should also match your pipe width and depth dimensions from earlier, but it can be a good idea to measure the space again before cutting the plywood boards to size.

Attach one box side to the first batten. Attach the edge of one box side to its corresponding wall batten using sturdy wood glue. The plywood side should rest on the outside of the batten with the width side of the board sticking straight out from the wall. Make sure that the length of the board covers the length of the batten and the pipe. After gluing the plywood side in place, further enforce the bond by inserting heavy-duty construction staples or nails into both the board and batten. Space the staples 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) apart.

Place the third batten. Use wood glue to attach the remaining third batten to the other end of the plywood box side. Position this third batten so that it runs parallel to the first. It should be to the inside of the plywood box side and on the opposite side of the wall. Reinforce the bond with wood staples or nails placed 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) apart.

Add the second box side. Place the second measured and cut plywood side so that it covers the remaining exposed side of the pipe. One side of this piece of plywood should lie to the outside of the open batten. The other side of this piece should form a corner with the opposite piece of plywood (the one previously attached to the wall). Attach the plywood to both connecting battens using both wood glue and nails or staples.

Paint as desired. If desired, you can minimize the appearance of the boxing by painting or staining it to match the color of the wall. Before painting, remove furniture from the room and cover the floor and all fixed appliances with plastic sheets. Doing so should prevent paint from splattering onto other surfaces.

Seal the seams. After the paint dries, seal the seams with decorator's caulk or silicone. Squeeze a small, steady bead of caulk across each seam and let dry. Sealing the seams will prevent unwanted moisture from getting into the pipe boxing. If moisture does get into the boxing, it could create mold or cause the wood to rot. Once you seal the seams, the project is complete.