How to Increase Water Pressure

Test your home’s supply pressure.

See if the pressure is 40-80 psi to narrow the issue down. Grab a water pressure gauge and go to any exterior hose bibb. Screw the gauge into the bibb and turn the water on all the way to determine if the pressure is low or not. Any reading between 40-80 psi is reasonable, and 60 psi is considered to be “ideal” for a home. If the home’s water pressure is low, the problem is either your water supply/water main or the valves near your water meter. If the pressure has always been low, it could also be a pipe issue as well. If the building’s water pressure is fine, the low pressure you’re experiencing is specific to the fixture or pipe where you’re running into pressure issues. Water pressure often fluctuates based on demand. Try testing the water pressure multiple times throughout the day if the pressure issues aren’t consistent.

Ask your neighbors if they’re having pressure issues.

If your neighbors also have bad pressure, call your city. Politely reach out to a neighbor or just ask the next time you run into someone on your street. If they’ve got pressure issues too, it’s a sign that your city’s water main is the problem. Call your water department and ask them to take a look at the problem. If your neighbors don’t have pressure problems, it’s a sign the problem is likely the valves near your water meter or your pipes.

Unclog and clean any slow showerheads.

Soak any slow showerheads in white vinegar for 24 hours. If you’ve isolated the problem to a showerhead, unscrew the fixture by hand or with a wrench. Fill a tub with 1-part water and 1-part white vinegar and soak the showerhead for a day or two. Rinse the showerhead out and reinstall it—any blockages or clogs should be gone. The vinegar removes any mineral buildup or calcium deposits that were restricting the water pressure. If you can’t remove the showerhead, fill an airtight Ziploc bag with vinegar and slide it over the fixture. Use rubber bands or string to pin the bag on the pipe behind the showerhead. You can do this with your sink faucets as well, but the aerators are more likely to be the issue on faucets and

Clean the aerator on a low-pressure faucet.

For low pressure faucets, the aerator is likely clogged. The aerator is the small screen at the end of most sink faucets that keep the water flowing freely, but they’re prone to clogging. Unscrew the aerator at the end of the faucet with a pair of pliers. Rinse off dirt or sediment, then run the faucet for a couple of minutes to dislodge sediment in the pipe. If the aerator parts still look dirty, soak them in an equal mix of white vinegar and water for three hours. To avoid scratches, wrap a cloth around the aerator before removing it.

Confirm the shutoff valve is open all the way.

If the shutoff valve is partially closed it will throttle the pressure. Look for the master shutoff valve near your water meter (it’s usually a red or blue ball valve). If it's been knocked to a partially closed position, turn it back to fully open. This valve can be knocked on accident when you’re working in the basement. If your home is older, below ground, or on a slate foundation, you may have a pressure-reducing valve near the shutoff valve, too. It will be shaped like a bell and located next to the shutoff. Turn the screw or knob on top clockwise in half-turn increments to adjust your home’s water pressure.

Fix any leaks you find.

Check the pipes and walls near the pressure issue and fix any leaks. Leaks are a common cause of low pressure. Conduct a quick check for damp spots beneath pipes, fixtures, tubs, and especially in the basement around the main supply line. Fix any leaky pipes you encounter. The supply line typically enters the house from the side in mild climates, or from the basement floor in cold climates. Small damp spots may be caused by condensation. Put down a couple paper towels and come back the next day to see if they are wet. If they are, you have a problem.

Inspect your water meter to rule out hidden leaks.

Measuring the meter will determine if there’s a leak you can’t see. If you haven’t found any leaks and everything seems fine indoors, your meter will tell the full story. Shut off all water in the house, then read the meter. There are two ways to check for leaks using the meter: If the small triangular or disk-shaped dial on the meter is spinning, water is still flowing. Assuming everything is shut off properly, you have a leak. Write down the reading, wait a couple of hours without using any water, and then check again. If you get a different reading, you have a leak. If you do have a leak and you can’t find it, it may be underground. Contact a plumber to find and repair these kind of leaks.

Fix issues with your water heater.

If your hot water is the only issue, check the heater and pipes. If only your hot water taps have low pressure, look for a problem at your water heater. Here are the most common problems: Sediment clogging the water heater or the hot water supply line. Flush the tank, then hire a plumber if that doesn't work. To prevent this happening again, replace the anode rod regularly and consider installing a water softener. Hot water supply pipes that are too small. In most cases the pipe leading from your water heater should have at least a ¾" (19mm) diameter. Leaks in the valves or the tank itself. Only attempt to repair these yourself if the leak is minor and you have experience with plumbing projects.

Test your toilet for leaks and fix them.

Toilet leaks are easy to overlook, so try flushing each toilet. A leaky toilet mechanism fails to block the flow from the tank to the bowl. Put a few drops of food coloring in the tank, and come back after an hour or two without flushing the toilet. If the food coloring has entered the bowl, your toilet needs a repair. Typically, all it needs is a new flapper or another cheap and easy fix. If you can hear your toilet running constantly, that's definitely a drain on your pressure. Learn how to fix it.

Try shutting off your water softener.

If you have a water softener, set it to “bypass” to see what happens. Water softeners are phenomenal if you’re trying to avoid the mineral deposits from hard water, but they are known for occasionally messing with water pressure. Try setting the machine to “pause” or “bypass” and see if that fixes your problem. If the pressure improves, have someone inspect your softener for issues. If the water softener is actually to blame, consider just leaving it off. It can be annoying to have to clean your shower and toilet more often, but hard water is actually good for you!

Contact a plumber to replace or inspect your pipes.

Replace any old supply pipes that can’t handle high pressure. Locate the main supply line at the side of your house, or in the basement if you live in a cold climate. If your supply pipe is silver and magnetic, with threaded fittings, it's galvanized steel. Old galvanized pipes often clog with mineral buildup or corrosion, slowing water flow. Replacing these with copper or plastic pipes may solve your problem. PEX pipes have especially thick walls, and therefore a smaller inner diameter. If you're replacing a metal pipe with PEX, use a larger size than the original.

Install a pressure booster if your city’s pressure is just low.

Address poor city supply with a water pressure booster. If you've always had this problem, phone your water supply company and ask for your neighborhood's "static water pressure." If the answer is below 30 psi (2.1 bar / 21 meters of head), the city supply could be the problem. Purchase and install a water pressure booster to address this. Warning: If you have corroded or clogged pipes, boosting water pressure could damage or break them. Higher supply pressures may still be inadequate for a multi-story house or a house on a hill. 60 psi (4.1 bar / 42 meters of head) should be plenty even in these situations. If your water supply comes from a well or gravity flow system, leave pressure adjustments to a professional.