Setting Up the Tank
Choose a proper tank. Select a tank that is at least 2.5 gallons (9.5 l; 2.1 imp gal). Ideally, the tank will be 5 gallons (19 l; 4.2 imp gal). This means that the classic fish bowl, nor the vases that pet stores commonly keep Bettas in are not large enough! The tank needs to be large enough to allow plenty of space for your Betta to move and explore, which is necessary to keep him healthy. Keep a lid on your Betta’s tank. Bettas will jump right out of their tank if you do not use a lid. Make sure there’s a few inches of space between the surface of the tank’s water and the lid, as Bettas will sometimes surface for a bit of fresh air. Make sure there is a tank light to help any aquatic plants grow.
Get a filter for the tank. You need a filter to circulate, aerate, and filter the tank’s water. In particular, a filter will break down and remove toxic fish waste from the tank. You will likely need a filter with an adjustable flow rate, as Bettas require a large tank with a low flow. This mimics the relatively still water in which the species evolved. Since there are many types of filters, it may seem hard to choose. Whichever filter you choose, make sure it is rated for your size of tank. This information will be on the filter’s packaging. Keep the filter setting relatively low, to ensure that the filter is not creating any strong currents.
Equip your tank with a heater. Since Bettas are from a tropical climate, they require a relatively high water temperature. You’ll likely need to equip your tank with a heater, as normal room temperature and temperature fluctuations in human dwellings is too cold for Bettas. Ideally, get a submersible aquarium heater and keep it running to maintain the water temperature from 78-82 F. Equip your tank with a thermometer as well, to help ensure the water maintains an optimal temperature. Check the water temperature whenever you feed your fish. Heat lamps, which are often built into tanks designed for tropical fish, are not adequate for Bettas. Submersible heaters allow for more consistent temperatures, which Bettas require.
Place your tank out of direct sunlight. Place your tank on a stable, solid surface that can safely hold its weight. Make sure that direct sunlight does not hit the tank at any point of the day. Sunlight contributes to excessive algae growth and dangerously high temperatures. If you’ve equipped your tank with lights, keep them off for at least 12 hours a day. Not only will this help control algal growth, but it is also important to provide your fish with a chance to rest.
Give your Betta places to hide. In addition to ample space, Bettas also require plenty of plants and/or other decorations. This will provide places to find cover, rest, explore, and hide when frightened. It will also simply ensure that your Betta is adequately stimulated by its environment. A Betta that enjoys and feels comfortable in its environment will be more active and interesting to watch! Artificial plants may be preferable, as natural plants will cause your tank water to become dirty much more quickly. Include at least one tall artificial plant that has leaves large enough to support your Betta near the surface of the water so that they can rest near the surface where the water is especially rich in oxygen. When selecting artificial plants and other decorations, make sure there are no sharp edges that might tear or catch your Betta’s fins. Do not keep mirrors in or near a Betta’s tank, as a male Betta will continually attack their own reflection. Make sure any decorations you add to the tank are aquarium-safe.
Maintaining Water Quality in Your Betta’s Tank
Add substrate to the tank. Substrate is an important component of a healthy fish tank, as it allows for the development of healthy bacteria. Your tank’s filter works with the help of this bacteria, which collects in a tanks substrate and also develops on the filter’s internal materials. These bacteria convert ammonia that is produced by decomposing fish waste into nitrates. The best type of substrate for a Betta tank is stone gravel, polished or otherwise smoothed. Get gravel from a pet store or online. The individual pieces of gravel should be too large for your Betta to fit in its mouth.
Condition the tank’s water. You can get a water conditioner from a pet store or online. This will remove chemicals from tap water that are harmful to fish, including chlorine and chloramine. Ultimately, you’re shooting for a ph around 7.0, which you should test for weekly. Testing kits can also be purchased at pet supplies stores or online. You may also need to add supplements to the tank if your water’s “hardness” needs to be adjusted. Test kits will also help you test for “general hardness” and “carbonate hardness”. Shoot for 7-9 degrees and 5-8 degrees hardness, respectively. In addition to pH, GH, and KH, you should also test for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. If any of these later three amounts are off, you can get liquid acids or buffers to help adjust their levels.
Do a partial water exchange every week. Plan to change about 20-25% of the tank’s water every week. Use a gravel vacuum to suck waste and uneaten food from the tank’s substrate. During your weekly cleaning, remove the tank’s decorations and rinse them off. Whenever the walls of the tank are becoming visibly dirty, wipe them off with a sponge designed for cleaning fish tanks. A gravel vacuum is actually a simple siphon you can get from your pet store or online. Siphon about a third of the tank's water from the bottom of the tank. This will allow waste to be pulled from the gravel without removing the gravel. Replace the same amount of water you removed with dechlorinated water that’s the same temperature as the water in the tank. Do not change all of the water at once, so the tank maintains a healthy amount of the bacteria that helps your filter keep the tank conditioned.
Keeping Your Betta Healthy
Feed your Betta a high-protein diet. Bettas are meat-eaters, so they must be food that is high in protein content. There are plenty of options, and you should actually vary the type of food your feed your fish, as long as you stick to high-protein options. Be especially careful not to feed your Betta too much, as leftover food can lead to a higher likelihood of your fish developing a disease related to dirty water. Feed your Betta an amount of food they can within two minutes. Monitor your Betta while eating. If there’s food left after two minutes, feed them less next time. Keep in mind that your betta's stomach is about the size of its eye! Don't overfeed it. Start by feeding them just a pinch at a time, adding more if two minutes have not elapsed and they're still eating. Stick to one feeding per day.
Watch for signs of illness. There are certain symptoms you should watch out for, as they may indicate that your Betta is sick. Behaviorally, be on the lookout for unusual swimming patterns, a sudden loss of appetite, or your betta scraping their body against the gravel in its tank. In terms of appearance, watch out for abdominal swelling, fins that are clamped against the sides of your Betta’s body, or any inflammation or discoloration. If you observe any of these symptoms, change the tank water immediately and begin more closely testing the water quality. Make sure water temperatures are safe as well.
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