Removing the Polish
Remove the laces from your shoes. Since you’ll be using soap to remove the old shoe polish, any suds that get on your shoe laces could leave them discolored. It’s best to remove these before you start, then replace them after your shoes are re-polished and dried.
Wipe down your shoes with a soft, damp cloth. Just like using soap on your skin, it will spread more evenly if your shoe is already damp before you apply it. You don’t want to get your shoes too wet, though, as it will affect the leather.
Rub your wet cloth across the top of a tin of saddle soap to create a lather. Saddle soap is used to clean and condition different types of leather, and it’s perfect for cleaning shoes. Swirl the cloth in a circular motion to get the best suds. You may need to re-wet your cloth during the process so the soap has enough water to create a lather. If you have a dauber brush, which is a small soap brush often found in leather cleaning kits, you can use it to apply the saddle soap instead of using the cloth. Wet the brush, swirl it in the saddle soap, then buff the brush onto the shoe.
Apply the saddle soap to the shoe in a circular motion. Try to work the soap into the leather so it penetrates the layers of old polish.
Wipe away the leather with a clean cloth. You don’t want to leave soap on your shoes, as this will cause the leather to become dull and dried-out. As you wipe away the lather, you should see streaks of the old polish coming off on the clean cloth.
Re-Polishing the Shoes
Cover your work surface with a cloth or a newspaper. Polishing your shoes has a tendency to get messy, and shoe polish can be hard to clean off of certain surfaces. Save yourself the trouble by laying down newspaper or an old towel or sheet before you get started.
Choose the right color polish for your shoe. If you’re not sure what color you need, you can use a neutral (or uncolored) polish. This will help restore some of the shine to your shoes, although it won’t cover any marks or faded spots. If you want to use a colored polish but you’re not sure which one you should choose, visit a high-end shoe store that specializes in leather shoes and ask for a professional opinion.
Apply a thin layer of conditioner to the shoes and let it sit for 10-20 minutes. You can apply leather conditioner with your hands or with a cloth. Apply the conditioner all over the shoes, then allow it to absorb into the leather for at least 10 minutes. A little shoe conditioner goes a long way, but it’s essential to help moisturize your shoe leather to keep it healthy longer. You can get leather conditioner at a shoe store or a specialty leather shop.
Dip a soft, clean cloth into the polish and apply it to the shoe. You don’t need much shoe polish, especially on light-colored leather. Buff the cloth onto the shoes in a circular motion, then allow the polish to dry for about 15 minutes. If you think your shoes need more polish, apply a second thin coat before the first one has dried completely. Never apply shoe polish in thick layers.
Brush your shoes vigorously with a shoe shine brush. After the polish has dried, brush your shoes with a horsehair shine brush. This will help remove any excess polish, and will also create a nice shine on your shoes. Many shoe polish kits come with a brush, although you may need to purchase one from a specialty shoe store. You can also brush the shoe lightly. Try going back and forth gently, as though you're doing a tap dance.
Give the toe and heel of your shoe a spit shine. You don’t actually have to use saliva for this - just wet a cotton ball or pad, then squeeze out any excess water. Add a little polish to the cotton, then use small circular motions to polish the toe and heel of your shoe. The longer you work, the shinier your shoes will look.
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