Shaping Eyebrows
Mark where your eyebrows should begin. Start by marking where you want your eyebrow to begin with a white pencil. The "beginning" of your eyebrow is the inside edge. Using the white pencil will make it easier to see the shape of your eyebrow when you go to wax. For instance, a good place for your eyebrow to "start" from the inside is in a straight line with the inside of your nostril. Use a card or piece of paper to make straight line up from the part of your nostril closest to the middle of your nose. Some people recommend you start from the outside of your nostril instead. You can pick your preference. Some people say making your eyebrows too far apart can make your nose look bigger.
Mark where your eyebrows end. Now you need to mark the outer edge of your eyebrow. This edge is where your eyebrows "end," meaning after this point, you will use wax to remove any extra hairs. For the outside of your eyebrow, use a card to line up the outside of your nostril with the corner of your eye. Keep the line going up to your eyebrow, which designates the outer edge.
Mark the arch point. The arch is the point of your eyebrow that curves upward, forming an arch. The arch should be aligned with the outer part of your nostril and your pupil, if you're looking straight ahead. Use the card to help you mark the arch point by making a straight line from the outer edge of your nostril through your pupil into your eyebrow. Use a white pencil to put a mark the arch point.
Create the lines of the eyebrow. Start by using a card to make a straight line across the bottom of the brow on the inner side. Hold it up to the inside of the brow, and angle it up slightly towards the arch point. Use your pencil to make a line up to the arch point. Do the same going towards the outside on the bottom, but going down instead. Also add lines across the top. Make a line going from the inside point to the arch point, then one from the arch point to the outside point. You can thin your eyebrows out a bit if you find them too bushy by bringing in your natural lines. However, you don't want to make them too thin, as they will look wispy.
Make the arch shape. Now that you've made the straight lines across the top and bottom, you can create an arch. You don't want a corner or point at the arch, but rather a slight curve. As you come to arch with your straight lines, curve the lines into each other, following your brow lines. If you want, you can make a more natural shape by creating a more pronounced curve. In that case, follow the line of your eyebrow instead of making straight lines across the top and bottom.
Getting Your Eyebrows Ready for Waxing
Brush your eyebrows. Use a spoolie brush to brush your eyebrows up. That gives you a better idea of your eyebrows shape, plus it gets your hairs all going in the same direction, making it easier to shape. A spoolie brush is basically a mascara brush that you don't use for mascara. You can find them at most drug stores and make up counters, or you can wash off an old mascara brush.
Trim any hairs that are too long. Once you brush up, you may notice some hairs are long enough to hang over the lines you've made at the top. To help the plucking and waxing process, use a small pair of eyebrow scissors to trim off the tops of these hairs. You can use your spoolie brush to help hold them in place if you need to do so. Brush the tips you cut off away so that they don't get caught up in the wax. Also, when brushing, if you notice that any hairs hang over the side of the brush, you can trim them, too. However, you don't want to trim too much. It's important to leave your hair long enough for the wax to pick up, meaning at least 2 to 3 weeks of growth. Mostly, you only want to trim the hairs that you are not going to wax, the ones that are inside the shape you want. In addition, most of the time, your beautician will also trim your eyebrows for you if you get them professionally waxed. You might as well let the expert do it.
Skip certain skin products. For a couple of days before getting a wax done, you should skip certain skin products. These products make your skin more sensitive, so by using them, you make the waxing process hurt more. Definitely skip any retinol product for several days before waxing. Also, skip your astringents and exfoliating products. These products often have ingredients that will make your skin more sensitive.
Move on to waxing. Once you've outlined your shape, you're ready to wax. You can use small wax strips for this purpose that only need to be warmed with your fingers. Using hot wax can be dangerous near your eyes. Cut the wax strip in half or so, so that it is only about 1/3 of an inch thick. You don't need a very thick strip for your eyebrows. Warm the strip with your hand. Cut wax strips to the right length, and apply along the lines you've created, making sure to do so in the direction your hair grows. Rub your fingers over the strips several times, warming the strip up and making sure it's adhered to your skin. Remove the strip quickly to pull off hairs. Apply a cold compress or an ice cube over your eyebrows to help numb the pain and soothe the skin.
Plucking Correctly
Pluck eyebrows after waxing. Once you've waxed your eyebrows, you'll need to pluck any excess hairs. Look for any hairs that were left outside the line you made, and pull them out. Make sure to not get any hairs within the hairline. When plucking, get the tweezers close to the skin. Obviously, you don't want to catch the skin, but getting near the skin gives you a better hold on the hair. As you pluck, pull in the direction the hair is growing, not against the grain. Also, try plucking after a shower. The warmth opens up the follicles, making it easier for you to pull hair out.
Get a good pair of tweezers. If you have older tweezers, it can make it more difficult to pluck hairs. In addition, they need to be the right shape for plucking. The best kind are the ones that have a slanted edge that come down to a point. Stainless steel is a good option for tweezers. They are sturdy, plus for most people, they won't irritate your skin like some other metals will.
Sharpen old tweezers. If you have a good pair of tweezers that you've used for years, you can make them sharp again. To sharpen them, rub sand or a nail file along the plucking edge, which will help you to grasp hairs. It's also important to clean your tweezers each time you use them. The best way to clean them is to dip a cotton ball in rubbing alcohol, then use it to rub all over your tweezers.
Shine a light on it. You need to be able to see what you're doing when you pluck. Therefore, make sure you are in a bright light when you start plucking. A good option is a bright vanity light or even standing next to the window to catch natural light. It's also good to use a magnified mirror. You'll be able to see what's going on with your eyebrows much better than if you use a regular mirror. You can get small handheld magnified mirrors at most drug and big box stores.
Pluck both eyebrows at once. You shouldn't start on one eyebrow, do the whole thing, and then move to the other. Rather, you should move back and forth between eyebrows as you pluck. You are much likelier to get them even this way. If you keep plucking on one eyebrow, it's much too easy to go too far. Moving back and forth helps keep them even and helps you see what they look like together so you don't pluck too much. This step holds true for shaping your eyebrows, as well. When you're shaping your eyebrows, it's best to draw a line on one side, then move over to the other side to make it even.
Don't pluck every day. It may be tempting to pluck out stray hairs when you're putting your makeup on. However, doing so can thin out your eyebrows too much, as you may pluck out hairs that you should let grow in. For instance, you may pluck a hair underneath your eyebrow that needs to actually grow in. It may be needed to fill in your eyebrow line, so you don't constantly look surprised. The most often you should pluck is once a week, but every 2 to 3 weeks is better.
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