Getting Started
Gain the trust of your horse. Having a personal relationship with your horse is imperative in building trust with it, leading to training later on. Spend time with your horse every day, starting with just being near it and grooming it. Grooming helps connect you with the horse and forms a bond between the two of you. Work around your horse in the pasture, giving it time to build confidence in you. Talk to your horse and be a solid, calm leader for it. Horses are prey animals, so they are always on high alert. They are aware of all changes and will be startled by sudden movement. If you have a foal or horse younger than 4 or 5 years old, don't worry about riding and focus on building trust and confidence through simple leading and grooming. You should spend a significant amount of time gaining the horse's trust before starting to train it. Do this even if the horse is already broken, but it is new to you.
Practice safety around your horse. Horses are powerful animals that can cause a lot of damage. While training your horse, you want to make sure you are safe. Familiarize yourself with a horse’s field of visions and then stay where your horse can see you most of the time. Horses can’t see directly in front of or directly behind them. If you are going over, right behind, or right in front of it, keep a hand on your horse so it can track you. The best place to stand is on the horse's side, angled towards its head where it can easily see and hear you. Talk to your horse when you are out of its eyesight. This helps your horse know where you are. Don't start off walking into the horse's blind spots, build confidence where it can see you, first. Only kneel or squat by the horse if you are sure it is used to the task you are performing.
Take it one step at a time. Breaking a new horse is a slow process. You have to make each step habit before moving to the next step. When training, each new concept you introduce needs to build off what you have just taught your horse. Remember, you want the horse to always be sure of the correct response so it will respond confidently. Never give up. Some steps may be easier than others for your horse. Training is a big commitment. End each lesson on a success. Even if it's just a little bit of progress, like the horse letting you get the halter near its face, always end on a good note.
Never get angry at the horse. Never scream at the horse, hit it, throw things, or act aggressively. This will scare the horse and break any trust you have built. Always speak quietly and calmly to your horse. If the horse disobeys you, correct it in a calm manner without showing aggression. It is okay to lightly tap the shoulder or buttocks with a rope to correct disrespect, but all training "failures" are nothing but a sign that you have not truly prepared your horse for the task. You may have to give your horse firm reinforcement of tasks if you have lost some control. Do backing up exercises to reassert your dominance without using violent means.
Reward the horse for successes. As a prey animal, they are searching for a release of pressure. Taking a few steps back or removing a scary piece of equipment shows the horse it doesn't need to fight to get away. It will respond well even more quickly the next time to obtain its release. Negative reinforcement would be a continuation of pressure or an escalation of pressure. Ex. You try to teach the horse to walk with you on a lead rope. You take a step, but it will not follow. You take another step, but it still does not come. Now you would gently pull on the rope, increasing pressure until it takes a step. Then, you immediately release the pressure. Soon it learns to walk for a little pressure to avoid more pressure and the horse eventually moves when you walk.
Halter-Breaking the Horse
Get the horse used to your hands. The first way to start halter training the horse is to get it used to having your hands near his head, ears, and neck. Do this slowly. Stay within the horse's eyesight so you don't startle it. Reach out slowly. If you reach out too fast, it may misinterpret your action. Continue doing this until you can touch the horse. Make sure to give the horse release when it allows more touch. The horse will know your touch does not hurt and it does not need to shake you off since you will back away on your own.
Get the horse used to the halter. Start by letting the horse see and smell the halter in your hands. For the first few days, simply allow it to see and smell the halter as you rub it on the horse as you pull it away. Then, start slowly placing the halter over the nose and onto the head. At first, you may want to leave it on without buckling. When the horse gets used to that, then you can buckle the halter behind the ears. This may take multiple attempts. Be patient and calm, trying to make a little bit of progress each day. Try using food to motivate your horse, such as by luring your horse into its muzzle with a carrot. Take the halter off immediately once it is on so it will not get anxious and allow it more easily the next time. Remember, you are teaching it these things are not scary and go away on their own so your horse does not feel the need to fight.
Introduce the bridle. Start by introducing the bridle to the horse along with the halter. Rub the bridle all over the horse's face gently. Try to get the horse to open its mouth for the bit. Be very gentle.
Add the bit. In addition to halter breaking the horse, you will also have to break the horse into using the bit. Slowly introduce the bit into the horses' mouth. At first, only do this for a few minutes. Slowly build up to having the bit in the mouth for longer. Adding a layer of molasses to the bit can help encourage the horse to put it in its mouth and make it more enjoyable.
Put the ear pieces on. Once the bit is in the horse's mouth without the horse fighting you, put the ear pieces over the ears. Do not fasten the straps yet. Gradually work your way up to fastening the straps. Remember to let the horse get used to the feel of the bridle on its head and ears.
Teaching the Horse to Longe/Lunge
Understand how to longe. Longing, or training with a rope, lets you lead a horse around an arena as you train it. When longing, make sure to use the largest circle you can. Circles that are too small can hurt the horse's legs, ligaments, and tendons. Make sure your circle has a minimum diameter of 60 feet (18.3 m). As you start training the horse to longe, don't do it longer than 10 minutes in each direction. Build the horse up for longer sessions, because long periods of longeing can put a lot of strain on a horse's body. Longing should take around 15 to 20 minutes total. You may want to get a lunge whip, which is a stiff 6 ft (1.8 m) or longer whip that you can use to guide the horse in the direction you want it to go.
Train the horse from the ground. Before attempting to mount the animal, it is important to gain its trust with ground breaking. Attach a lunge line to the horse's halter.
Do not attach the line to the bit. You will pull on his teeth and cause pain. Making the horse's mouth uncomfortable or painful will make the horse fear longeing. Move your body with your horse so that the longe line has a steady contact. The horse will eventually accept this contact and walk in a circle to maintain that contact instead of pushing and pulling away.
Longe/lunge your horse. Longeing a horse is the process of showing leadership through working them in an arena. Spend time at least once daily longeing your horse. Use your body language to direct and speed them up. Eventually, build up the speed and intensity of longeing, until they can do a full canter, all while listening to your cues. You should never touch your horse while longing; all cues should be given through changes in energy and body position, or with swinging the end of your longe line. Longeing is a trust exercise; every time your horse does as you ask, break eye contact and release the pressure you're applying. Longeing is also a great way to exercise your horse when you cannot ride it.
Train the horse to follow your commands. Teach the horse to properly walk beside you while leading it with a lead rope. As the horse moves in the circle around you, you need to teach it voice commands. Introduce the horse to the words: "halt," "stand," "walk," and "back." Make sure that you train the horse to understand "halt" and "walk" before doing anything else. Then, you can start introducing it to other faster commands, like "trot." Try using body language instead of voice cues. Widening your arm or looking just ahead of the horse can tell them to speed up.
Teach the horse to respect your space. Horses will test you when you are lead training them. They may try to shoulder you out of their space to see who the leader is. You must assert that you are the leader. When the horse moves too close to you, place pressure on the horse's ribs about a foot behind the shoulder. This is where the lead horse in a herd would discipline the horse. The horse will move sideways and give you space.
Teach the horse to respond to pressure. The horse should learn how to respond to pressure on the halter. Attach the lead rope to the halter. Stand to the near (left) side of the horse, standing parallel to it, looking straight (as it should be). Hold the lead a few inches below the clip. Pull the lead to the right, away from you, and the horse should eventually give in to it and turn its head to the right. Immediately release the pressure. Alternatively, stand on the right side of the horse. Pull the lead rope to the right to apply pressure. The horse should learn how to turn his head towards you from that command. Repeat for turning left, doing the same things as for the right except pulling in the direction that you are. Do the same thing for forward and backward by applying pressure on the halter in the correct direction. The horse will learn to follow the pressure to release the pressure.
Saddle Breaking a Horse
Introduce the saddle. A horse must become familiar with the weight and sound of a saddle on its back. Just like with a halter and bit, spend a few days getting the horse used to the sound of the saddle, how it smells, and how it looks. After the horse is used to the sight of it, hold the saddle over the horse's back without touching.
Place the saddle pad (English) or saddle blanket (Western) on the horse. After the horse has gotten used to seeing the saddle, place the saddle pad/blanket on the horse's back. Leave it on for just a few moments. Then, if the horse responds well, take it off and reward your horse. Repeat several times. Do this on both sides so the horse gets used to you doing this from both sides. If the horse becomes very frightened, more than is controllable, quickly remove the saddle pad/blanket and return to a more familiar task like rubbing with the blanket or leading before you try again.
Introduce the saddle onto the horse slowly. Distract the horse by patting it and be sure to release the pressure quickly. Leave it on for a few minutes, then remove it. Do this from both sides of the horse. Make sure you remove the stirrups and leathers while saddle breaking a horse.
Fasten the girth on the horse. Do this very slowly. Tighten the girth little by little each day, especially if the horse seems skittish. If the horse seems too scared, stop and keep getting it acclimated to the tack. When your horse allows the girth to be tightened all the way, lean gently on the horse's back.
Get the horse used to stirrups. Next, longe with the saddle on and the stirrups down. This helps the horse get used to things by his sides and legs. Also, start placing the leathers back onto the saddle. Do this slowly over the course of 1 to 2 weeks. Only introduce one new element at a time. Let the horse lose his fear of the item before introducing it to something new. Walk the horse around with the stirrups on after it has gotten used to the way they feel. This will help to get the horse used to the feeling of the stirrups bumping against its sides and the feeling of the tack on its back.
Longe with the saddle. When the horse can wear the saddle for longer periods, start longeing around the arena with the saddle in place.
Training the Horse to Be Mounted
Prepare the horse for your mount. Until this point, the horse has likely only seen you at or below eye level. Move the horse near a fence post crossing. Climb up on the post and stand at a height so that you are above the horse's head.
Introduce weight onto the horse's back. Gradually begin leaning on the horse until almost all your weight is on the horse’s back, but without getting all the way into the saddle. When the horse accepts this, release the pressure and stroke its neck.
Get on the horse's back. You should slowly and gently place your left foot in the stirrup and lean your weight into it. Release pressure often until he is not bothered by the action. Build up to swinging your right leg over the horse's back, always releasing pressure until it is comfortable with you sitting on it. Begin walking him slowly, only a few steps, using the verbal cues you use when longing. Do not use the reins yet. Stop the horse with your verbal cues and dismount often. Start picking the reigns up while standing still and drop them to release. Work up to holding the reins as the horse walks.
Start using your reins. Walk the horse around you circle pen as usual, but begin lifting the reign as you round turns. Try this the other way. If you have done proper longing, it should know how to change directions in the circle. Continue your normal pressure as your horse turns until it faces the middle of the arena. Stop the pressure and pat its neck. Do this until you can turn the horse around and walk the other direction without stopping. Slowly build up the time you are in the saddle over a period of several weeks or months. Do not attempt to increase the speed until your horse is 100% comfortable with you while walking. It may take a full year or longer before you can trot and canter on your horse. Don't rush the process, as it could train your horse to be fearful of you because you are unpredictable or push it for too much
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